Miscellanea Curiosa, Vol. 3 · Royal Society
FOOTNOTES:
The Situation, and placing the Door, hinders one from conjecturing it to have been a Christian Oratory, or Chappel, and therefore in probability it must have been a Heathen Temple; and if so, then the piece of the Castle Wall being of a softer Stone, must be much more modern; the goodness of the Water brings the _Arabs_ (who rove up and down the Desart) and the _Turk-men_ frequently hither, which has occasion'd a great many Graves about the Temple; and some have had leisure, and, (which is more difficult to be imagin'd) skill enough to scratch in the Walls the first Letters of their Names, and many more in Arabick Characters, which we could make nothing of, no more than of an Arabick Inscription which lay hard by, but appeared not ancient.
_October_ the 2d. We departed from _Esree_, about an Hour, or an Hour and an half after Midnight, and in six Hours and an half arrived at two Wells, the Water 18 Fathom and 2 Foot deep, known by the Name of _Imp malcha Giub_: Through the greatest part of this Stage we had a broad beaten Road, and where that was not discernible, we guided our selves by a ridge of chalky Hills, under which the Wells lay; the Water we found exceeding bad, and of so noisome a Scent, that we could not endure it so much as at our Noses; which made our Guide laugh at us, who told us, the _Arabs_, and even the King himself used to drink freely of it; which, I am sure, our Horses would not do, though they were under a necessity of drinking that or none: For our selves we had brought from _Esree_ Water, sufficient for one Day at least. In our way hither we were shewn the true Plant which they burn for Soap-Ashes, which has no Leaves, but a soft juicy Stalk shooting into several Branches, and something resembling our Camphire, only it's more round than that; the Ashes likewise we saw, which were made not far from the Wells, which in burning run into Cakes, not much unlike the Cinders of a Forge, only they are heavier, and not so full of Pores, nor so hard as they are. In the Afternoon, we proceeded on our Voyage two Hours and an half, to a place called _Almyrrha_, passing rather between than over the Hills, though we had something of an ascent too; this we did to shorten our Stage the next Morning, for we were told before-hand we should find no Water upon those Mountains; so, for our Selves, we liv'd upon our old Stock, and our Horses were constrain'd to pass that Night without Water. Our Journy hitherto had been altogether Southerly, and but little varying to the Eastward of due South.
This memorable Place is known by the Name of _Al-Wishal_. _October_ the 4th. From _Al-Wishal_ we proceeded for _Tadmor_, some of the Ruins of which we perswaded our selves we could see the Day before; perhaps it might be the Castle, which is more than half an Hour's distance from the City; our way lay Southward, but the Gut in which we travelled would not permit us to keep a direct course: However, in about an Hour's Walk, we past by _Antor_ Mountains (our Guide call'd them _Toul Antor_) through a Gut or Rent, both sides of which so directly answered one to the other, they would tempt a Man to believe they were separated by Art, for an entrance into the Country; but it must have been a work of prodigious Labour and Charges to have cut through such vast Mountains: And if any one was so hardy as to attempt it, he certainly grew weary of his Undertaking; for the Ground is levelled but a very little way, and almost as soon as we were well got within the open space, we were obliged to ascend another Hill, and so our Road continued over Hills and Valleys interchangeably all the way.
On the left Hand, some distance from the Road, we saw a _Sheck_'s House on the top of a high Hill, which made a better show than usually those Buildings do, but being assured by our Guide it was a modern Structure, and eager too to come to the principal Place we aimed at, we would not prolong our Stage so much as to turn out of the Road, to see more of it: So pressing still forwards, we had hardly proceeded four Hours, when we came to the brow of a Rocky Mountain, separated from that whereon stands the Castle of _Tadmor_, but by a narrow Valley: In which Hill, by the Way, appeared some Quarries of fine Stone, which probably might afford Materials to the curious Buildings in the City. Our Guide here (according to his accustomed Diligence) advanced some few Paces before us, and having espied three or four Country-Fellows driving Asses towards us, he caused us to make halt, to give them an opportunity to come nearer to us, resolving to speak with them, to know whether the Coast was clear, or if any of the Mountain _Arabs_ were then at _Tadmor_, or not.
After a little space, with our Arms in our Hands, we marched in as good order as the Way would permit, down a rocky and steep Precipice, into the Valley; and our Guide making greater speed than we could, gallop'd after the poor affrighted Country Fellows; who seeing such a Company unexpectedly descend the Hill, left their Asses, and fled towards the City with all possible speed: But they were soon overtaken, and brought back again to us; to whom they related the good News, that there was no Force at all in _Tadmor_, and that we might proceed with Courage, and see what we would there with all safety: Which News obtained them their Liberty to go again to their Asses, and we continued in our Way. Having tired our selves with roving from Ruin to Ruin, and rummaging among old Stones, from which little Knowledge could be obtained; and more especially not thinking it safe to linger too long in a Place, where should the Mountain _Arabs_ (who were Enemies to _Assyne Abasse_, our Friend) have Intelligence of us, they might either fall upon or endeavour to intercept us in our return; (for which reason also we had all along concealed our intended Course, under a pretence of proceeding forward to _Damascus_.) On _Thursday_, _October 8._ about half an Hour after four in the Morning, we departed from _Tadmor_, being very well satisfied with what we had seen, and glad to have escaped so dreaded a Place, without any Trouble or Pretences upon us; but else with some Regret, for having left a great many things behind, which deserved a more particular and curious Inspection.
Our Road lay almost due East, or a little inclining to the North; and on the left Hand, a ridge of Hills stretched along for a great space, sometimes about half an Hour distant from the Road, and sometimes opening wider: These Hills, we were told, were stored with rich Veins of divers Minerals, and afforded all that vast quantity of Marble, the Remains whereof we had seen at _Tadmor_; and it was from a Fountain call'd _Abulfarras_, at the foot of one of them, they fetch out Water, which we drank there; the Inhabitants contenting themselves with that which runs from the Hot Springs. To the right Hand lay a vast barren Plain, perfectly bare, and hardly any thing green to be seen therein, except it were a few Gourds which our Servants found on the side of a little rising-Ground, where there was no shew of any thing moist to feed them. Our Way being plain, we had the sight of _Tadmor_, especially the Castle, for above half our Stage, till we came to an old _Caphar_ House.
We made indeed a very short Days Journey, in the whole, finding a Fountain of excellent Water in about five Hours and a half's Riding; which, as it was a most welcome Refreshment to us in such a thirsty Desart, so it was the only good Water we met with till we came to _Euphrates_, which was not till the third Day from this Place. At this Fountain we pitch'd, near to which is a Village, but almost wholly ruined and deserted. 'Twas some time before any Body would be seen, for they were afraid of us; at length, three Men came out to our Tents, Spectacles of a miserable Poverty, occasion'd by their being frequently pillaged by the Mountain _Arabs_, and a great Duty they pay to _Assyne Abasse_ their King, for his Protection: Three hundred Dollars they pay him Annually, when one would think the whole Village was not able to make up the Sum of one Hundred; yet being the remotest Place that was under his Jurisdiction, they often suffer by the Inroads of the other. The Name of the Place is _Yarecca_, a Name it received (as we were inform'd) from a Victory obtained there by the _Turks_ over the _Mamalukes_.
_October_ the 9th. From _Yarecca_ we mounted early, and Travelling N. E. or near that Point, in seven Hours time arrived at _Soukney_. The Road we found much like what we had the Day before, lying over a barren Plain; only we had Hills on both sides, and sometimes closing within half an Hours riding one of the other. The Village has its Name from the Hot Waters, (for so the Word imports,) which are of the same Nature with those of _Tadmor_; herein they Bath frequently, the same little dirty Hole serving both for Men and Women; only they have so much Modesty remaining, that they have different Hours for one and the other. To say the Truth, 'twas the only mark of Modesty I could observe among them; in other respects they seemed a Confident, or rather Impudent Generation of People.
Before we could pitch our Tents, they flock'd about us in multitudes, Men, Women, and Children; and of the last, many of them as naked as ever they came into the World, not so much as a Rag about them to cover them; and so numerous they appeared, that if we had reason to think _Yarecca_ wanted Inhabitants, we had no less, to conclude _Soukney_ over-stock'd. At this Place usually resides an Officer of _Assyne_'s, who is their Sub-Basha, or Governor: He whom we found there, was call'd _Dor_, of a good Family among the _Arabs_, to whom we made a Present; and he civilly return'd it in Barley for our Horses. Afterwards he came under our Tents, and invited us to an Entertainment; which, considering the Circumstances of the Place, was very Splendid, though it was nothing but _Pilaw_ at last, a little diversify'd by the dressing; and, to speak truly, I judge we could not have less than a Bushel of Rice set before us. His Palace, indeed was not very stately, there being few Cottages in _England_ but might vie with it. To the Room wherein we were entertain'd, which, doubtless, was the best, if not the only one he had, we were forced to clamber, rather than ascend, by broken Steps made of Stone and Dirt.
When we were got in, and commodiously seated after the _Turkish_ Mode, it seemed large enough for about a dozen or fourteen People: At the upper end was a little space separated from the rest by a ridge made up of Earth, within which, I suppose, he slept. The Walls were mean; but the Roof much worse, having no other Covering but Faggots; so that certainly it could not be Proof against a Shower of Rain which fell that Night, and forced us out of our Tents, into in old ruinous _Cane_, for shelter: However, it served well enough for our Afternoons Collation; and we had come away with a good Opinion of the Gentleman's Civility, had he not afterwards endeavoured to make a Pretence upon us, and so would have forced us to pay dear for our Rice: He pretended to a Customary Duty of a Chequeen a Head of all _Franks_ that past that Road; though probably neither he, nor his Grand-father before him, had ever seen a _Frank_ there before. But when he understood by our Guide, that we were not so easily to be imposed upon; and withal, that we were _Assyne_'s Friends, and in our Way to his Tents; and especially our Treasurer a Person he very much esteemed, who therefore would be sure to acquaint him with any Exaction or Injury offer'd us, his Mouth was quickly stop'd, and he grew so sensible of his Error, that he sent to excuse it, and presented our Treasurer with a Fan of Black Ostrich Feathers; and not only so, but in the Morning came himself, and begging Pardon, desired nothing might be said of what had past, and so conducted us about an Hour on our way. This Village pays to _Assyne_ fifteen hundred Dollars _per Annum_.
_October_ the 10th. Continuing our Voyage still to the N. E. or something more Easterly, we found it another pleasant and easie Stage to another Village call'd _Tiebe_, so called (as they say) from the goodness of the Water, the Word signifying _good_: But we found them not so over excellent; they had the Tast, and were doubtless tinctured with the same Mineral, with those of _Soukney_ and _Tadmor_, though not so strong. But the Village it self made a better Shew than usual; and the People appear'd of something better Fashion, and more civiliz'd, than those we had left. It's pleasantly situated, and makes a good appearance as one comes up to it; the Prospect being helped by a well built Steeple, to which is now adjoyned their Mosch: But I am apt to believe it the remains of a Christian Church, being built with more Art and Beauty than you shall easily find in Turkish Fabricks: And there are also several Ruins about it, which speak it to have been a more famous Place than now it is. Into the Mosch we were permitted to enter, without any Disturbance. This Village lies in one of the Roads from _Aleppo_ to _Bagdatt_, and pays to _Assyne_ an Annual Tribute of one thousand Dollars. From hence we mounted again in the Afternoon, and proceeded about two Hours and a half farther, to shorten our next Days Stage. Having travelled this Day, in all, about seven or eight Hours, the Place we pitch'd at was a Fountain, and known by the Name of _Alcome_; but neither Town nor House by it: neither was the Water fit to be Drank, being of the same nature with that of _Soukney_, and almost as warm.
_October_ the 11th. From _Alcome_ we rose about an Hour and an half after Midnight, our Guide groping out the way, by the help of the Stars, which now bended more to the North than formerly. As soon as it was light enough to look about us, we found our selves in a wild open Desart, the Ground, in some Places covered with a sort of Heath, and in others quite bare. Nor had we travelled long after the Sun was up, before, by the help of a rising Ground, we discovered _Arsoffa_, the Place whither we were tending, which gave us hopes we should quickly be there: But having a dry tiresome Plain to traverse, and the hot Sun causing our Mules a little to slacken their Pace, 'twas after ten a Clock before we reach'd it: And which was more vexatious still, finding no Water any where near, we were necessitated to proceed forward for the River _Euphrates_, which we found four Hours distant from hence. _Arsoffa_, or (as the _Arabs_ call it) _Arsoffa Emir_, seems to be the remains of a Monastery, having no Town nor Village near it, and being one continued Pile of Building of an oblong Figure, stretching long ways East and West, and enclosing a very capacious Area: At a distance it makes a glittering shew, being built of _Gypsine Stone_, or Rock-Ising-glass, resembling Alabaster, but not so hard; several Quarries of which we past by in our way to it. When the Sun shines upon it, it reflects the Beams so strong, that they dazzle the Eyes of the Spectators.
_October_ the 12th. This Morning, about Sun-rise, we proceeded on our Voyage, keeping along the Banks of the River, which, for the most part, led us West and North-West: And here we had pleasant Travelling, having the River on the right Hand, and Hills of Marble or other fine Stone, on the left; and delightful Groves of Tamarisk, Mulberry, and other Trees to pass through. Here every thing about us lookt fresh and verdant, and we met frequently Men and Women passing on their Occasions, a thing to which (in our former Stages) we had not been accustomed. We had also a pleasing Prospect of the opposite Shore, and could see a great way into _Mesopotamia_, but could meet with no Convenience to cross the River, which we were very desirous to have done. There are no Places of Note remaining upon the River either on one side or the other, only on the farther side we saw an old Castle call'd _Giabar_, which made a good Shew, being situated on the top of a Hill, and both for that and the way of Building, very much resembling that of _Aleppo_, only that is the larger, and in the midst of a City; this less, and has neither Town nor Houses about it. On our side we past by a _Sheck_'s House call'd _Abul-Rarra_, and the Ruins of a Town a little farther, where there was a square Tower built of a very ordinary Brick, but pretty entire. After we had left these Ruins, we rested to bait, under the Shadow of a Rock, wherein were many Apartments and Conveniences cut to lodge in, which I suppose are made use of in the Winter by the People, who, during the Summer, pitch among the Trees by the River-side. In the Afternoon we continued our Journey as before, keeping always at a little distance from the River, till a little before Sun-set; when we came to a very convenient Place upon the Banks, where we took up our lodging for that Night, having travell'd between seven or eight Hours the whole Day.
_October_ the 13th. This Day we had the same Satisfaction as the Day before, proceeding as near the River as the Road would permit; and having made a Stage of about six Hours, we rested under the shade of the Tamarisk Trees by the River side, hoping to have found conveniency to have crossed it, but we could not. In our Way we saw nothing observable but the Ruins of a City call'd _Baulas_, where the _Turks_ had formerly a _Sangiack_; but now there is never an Inhabitant in the Place, nor House standing, but the Ruins of Houses, and an Octagonal Tower of a considerable height, _viz._ One hundred and seven Steps, and beautified on the outside with Flourishes and an Arabick Inscription round about: It's a handsome Structure, and probably the Work of the _Mamalukes_, since whose time little has been done to adorn, but abundance to destroy and wast this Country. After Dinner, we mounted sooner than ordinary; because hoping to reach the Tents of _Assyne_, we were unwilling it should be late when we arrived: yet we made it near Sun-set before we got to _Fay_, a Fountain by which he lay.
We had travell'd still on the same Point N. W. with the Prospect of the River the greater part of the Way; the nearest Reach thereof not being above an Hours Riding from the Fountain. On the Road we met with several _Bandera_'s of the _Emir_'s Soldiers, who knowing our Guide, and understanding we were going to him, gave us a very courteous _Salam_, who else, perhaps, might have treated us with another sort of Civility. The King's Tents spread over a large Plain, and took up so vast a Space, that though we had the advantage of a rising Ground, we could not see the uttermost extent of them. His own particular Tent was pretty near the middle of the rest, which were pitch'd about it, not in a circular manner, but stretching out in length as the Plain open'd, or for the better conveniency of a Current of Water, which from the Fountain ran through the midst of them. 'Twas not at all distinguishable from the rest, but by its bigness, and a little more Company about it, being all made of a sort of Hair-Cloth, which seemed hardly a defence against Rain or Sun: But certainly they must find otherwise, else their Necessity (they spending their Lives in such moveable Habitations) would have taught them to have contrived something better. It cannot well be doubted but they are descended from the old _Arabs Scenitæ_, they living just after the same manner, having no settled Abode, but remove from Fountain to Fountain, as they find Grass for their Sheep and Camels, and Water for them and themselves. They love to derive themselves from _Ismael_ the Son of _Abraham_; and it may be they are descended from him, but I believe they would be hard put to't to prove their Pedigree.
As soon as we alighted, we were attended by the Officers of the _Emir_, and conducted to a very noble Tent built after the _Turkish_ Mode, and pitch'd next to his own. Hither he sent to bid us welcome, and to enquire how we had past in our Voyage; and presently after we had a Repast of several Dishes of Meat set before us, to stay our Appetites till a more plentiful Supper could be got ready. But before Supper the King himself made us a Visit in Person, bidding us Welcome to _Fay_, and asking what we had seen in our Travels that pleas'd us? how we liked _Tadmor_? and whether we had found a Treasure there? For this Notion sticks in the Heads of these People, That the _Franks_ go to see old Ruins, only because they there meet with Inscriptions which direct them to some hid Treasures. And therefore it's no unusual thing with them, when they find a Stone with an Inscription on one side, to turn that down to the Ground, that it might not be seen or read of any.
But we assur'd him we went with no such Expectations, but only out of a desire to see the Place: Neither had we brought any thing away with us; but a piece of Porphyry Stone, which, upon his Request, we shew'd him. We let him see too, a kind of rude Draught which we had taken of the Place; which he seemed to like. He made his Visit the shorter, that he might not incommode us after our Journey; but desir'd us we would live after our own Pleasure and to our Satisfaction, and command freely whatever the Camp would afford; ordering some of his People constantly to attend upon us. When there was mention made of our Design to be gone the next Morning, he answer'd, It must not be; himself was invited the next Day, to a great Entertainment, by one of his _Grandees_, and we should accompany him: But the Day following, he would go out with us, and Hunt part of our Way towards _Aleppo_.
When Supper was brought in, there was Victuals enough for three times our Number: A large Dish of _Pilaw_ in the middle, and twelve or fifteen Dishes of several sorts of Meat about it, all dress'd after their manner, but exceeding good, and such as one might have fed heartily upon, had he not spoil'd his Appetite before. After we had Eat and Drank what we pleas'd, we rose up, and our Servants sat down in our Places; it being the Custom of the _Arabs_, and _Turks_ too, from the Highest to the Meanest, all to eat at the same Table: The best sort sit down first, and so in order till all are satisfy'd, and then what remains is carry'd away. We might, if we had pleas'd, have lodg'd under the same Tent where we eat; but having Tents of our own pitch'd, some of our Company chose rather to retire thither, to avoid being disturbed by too many Visitants.
Text from Project Gutenberg, public domain in the United States.