Miscellanea Curiosa, Vol. 3 · Royal Society
VOL. III.
_A Journal of a Voyage from _England_ to _Constantinople_, made in the Year, 1668. by _T. Smith_, D. D. and F. R. S._ On _Monday_ Evening _August 3, 1668._ we took Barge at _Tower-Wharf_, and at _Greenwich_ went on Board the _Bezant_ Yacht for the _Downs_, where we arrived the next day in the Afternoon, and went on Board the _Leopard_ Frigat, a Ship of 56 Guns mounted, Captain _O Bryen_ Commander, appointed to carry Sir _Daniel Harvey_, his Majesty's Ambassador to the Port of the _Ottoman_ Emperor at _Constantinople_. Here, upon his first Arrival, the Ambassador was Complemented by Sir _Jeremy Smith_, then riding Admiral, Sir _Edward Spragg_, and several other Commanders of the Men of War, and afterwards Saluted with Fifteen Pieces of Ordinance by the Admiral, to whom we returned as many; then by the Vice-Admiral, and several other Ships. All which were answered together at the same time with 21 in the whole. Here we were forced to Ride for several days, the Winds being contrary. In the _Offing_ between the _North Foreland_ and _South Foreland_ it runs Tide and half Tide, that is, it is either ebbing Water or Flood upon the Shore, in that part of the _Downs_, three hours, which is grossly speaking the time of half a Tide, before it is so, off at Sea. (For the flux and reflux of the Sea is not made exactly twice in 24 hours, but, as it appears by accurate observation, it requires an overplus of almost 50 minutes.) The reason of this diversity of Tides, I take to be from the meeting of the two Seas in that narrow Streight.
Oftentimes when the Wind has blown hard at N. E. or at W. or W. and by S. there has hapn'd an alteration of the Tides in the River of _Thames_, which ignorant People have mistakenly lookt upon as a Prodigy. It is a most certain Observation, that where it flows Tide and half Tide, tho' the Tide of Flood runs aloft, yet the Tide of Ebb runs under foot, that is, close by the _ground_; and so at the Tide of Ebb, it will flow under foot, as that great and experienc'd Sea-Commander, Sir _H. Manwaring_, words it. _August 9._ We sailed from the _Downs_, but were soon forced back by distress of Weather, and came to an Anchor S. W. of the _South Foreland_. 10. The Wind blew at S. S. W. and the Sea run very high, so that we were in danger of losing our Cable and Anchor; the Ground, where we rode, at 16 Fathom ½ water, being somewhat gruff. 15. The Wind coming about at W. N. W. we sailed, and were Saluted with nine Guns from _Dover_ Castle, and seven from one Fort, and five from another. We carried a Flag upon our Maintop, after we came out of the _Downs_. The Wind in the Afternoon at N. E. brought us by seven of the Clock to the _Ness_, where we lay at Anchor during the Tide of Flood; during which time the Mariners caught good store of _Whitings_, baiting their Hooks with raw Mutton.
16. We were in the morning athwart St. _Helen_'s Point in the _Isle of Wight_; where we discovered Sir _Thomas Allen_ with his Squadron under Sail, bound for the _Straits_. 17. In the morning we got to the West of _Portland_, the Wind at N. by E. our Course lying thereupon S. S. W. but about noon, sailing over part of the Race of _Portland_, where we met with a tumbling Sea, we Anchored at the N. W. part in the Bay, over against the Point that looks towards _Weymouth_. We were ashore in the Island, which seems to be but one continued Rock; the Soil in several places not being above five or six Inches deep, as I found by digging a hole with my Knife; yet the Corn flourishing enough. The Castle consists of a double Fortification; we could not observe above five Guns mounted. They told us, that in the Island there was but 1 Church, and 4 Villages. We weighed at twelve of the Clock at night: But 18. The Wind blowing fiercely at W. directly in our teeth, we made but little way, and could not weather the _Start_ Point that night. The Moon upon its first emerging above the Horizon, seemed to have a colour like burnt Brick, the Sky very cloudy: but some Rain falling, as she advanced higher and higher, she appeared more and more fiery.
19. We weathered the _Start_ Point by noon, but could not make much way beyond it. 20. We got into _Plymouth_ Sound. The Cittadel, built upon a Rock, with large Counterscarps and Bastions, returned our Salute with nine Guns. Sir _Thomas Allen_ with his Fleet stood to the Lizard, and came not to an Anchor. 21. Misty Weather. About eleven Clock Forenoon, and about six in the Evening, we observed the Vapours in great quantity ascend out of the Sea, soon covering the tops of the Mountains. Here we staid three days, taking in some Provisions, ready prepared for us. On _Sunday_ the 23_d_ of _August_ we weighed out of _Plymouth_ Sound, and made the _Lizard_, a Promontory in _Cornwall_, before night: The _Manacles_, several Rocks so called, we discerned very distinctly, it being then low Ebb; as also the Lands end. The Wind blew fresh; and we observed the Waves in the Night-time, as if they had been liquid Fire, but palish. The _Lizard_ bearing N. of us, we changed our Course, and taking leave of _England_, we sailed into the Ocean. God of his Mercy send us a happy Voyage. 24. We run this day thirty nine Leagues by a Compute from our Log-line. 25. We were full open with the _Bay of Biscay_. Several _Gulls_ were hovering over the Surface of the Water to catch Fish, which swam by in vast sholes, at about 50 Leagues distance from any Land.
At other times I have seen several Birds floating upon the Water, which being driven by some Tempest from the Coasts of _Spain_ and _Portugal_, have been tired in their flight, and so drowned. This happens frequently in the great Ocean, where they meet with no Land to fly to in several hundreds of Leagues; and sometimes even in the _Mediterranean_, in the Mid-Seas between the _Christian_ and _Barbary_ Shores. In blowing Weather, among other Birds flying cross, we saw a Hawk making to our Ship, then under good and swift Sail, which perched upon the round-top of the Main-mast; which one of the Seamen espying, he presently run up the Shrouds, and brought down the Hawk, which made no attempt to fly away, being quite spent. But not long after, the Hawk recovering his Spirits by rest and meat which was given him, took wing and got away from the Fellow, notwithstanding all the care he took to secure his new Adventure, which he hoped to have made Mony of at the next Port that we should come to. 26. A strong Levant still blowing, and the Sea very rough and boisterous, the Gale continuing almost right a stern, we run these 24 hours above 70 Leagues.
27. We found our selves by our observations, that we were in the Latitude of 42 degrees 17 minutes, and began to be very sensible of our nearer approach to the South, the Weather being excessive hot. In the Afternoon we heard the report of several Guns fired at about seven or eight Leagues distance, as we guessed. At eight of the Clock at night another Gun was fired somewhat near us, which we thought might be from an _Algerine_ Man of War, who gave a signal to his Consorts, and who answered by several flashes of Powder. Whereupon our Trumpeters sounded a Point of War, but no return was made. However, the Captain quartered his Men, and the Decks were cleared, and all things made ready in order to a Fight the next Morning; as soon as day appeared, we saw the Sea clear, no Ships being in view any way: so that we concluded that they were Merchant-Ships, with their Convoy, standing to the Northward. 28. Dreadful Lightnings in the Clouds towards the Evening; after which great Dews fell: the Weather extream hot. 29. We saw a Pilot-fish swim by the sides of the Ship, and several Bonito's and Albicores playing, as it were with their Heads above Water. The Wind took us short in the night, and soon after there was a stark Calm; and we had great reason to bless God for it: For had we continued our Course that night, we had either run a-ground, or had been cast upon the Rocks near to _Peniche_ in _Portugal_. The fault was mis-reckoning, and haling in too soon to make the _Southern Cape_: though the Seamen, to salve their Credit, and to excuse their Error, which had like to have proved so fatal to us, pretended that we were set in by a strong Current. God make us thankful for this great Deliverance.
30. This Morning we were surprized to see our selves within four or five Leagues of the Shore, when we had thought that we had been above twenty. In the Afternoon, the Wind coming on fresh, we weathered the westermost Isle of the _Barlings_. On the greatest of which, being as we guessed, above half a Mile in length, the _Portuguese_ have built a Fort to hinder the _Barbary_ Pirates from careening their Ships there, or taking in fresh Water. The Land of it very high, and bore off us S. E. by E. By it lie several Rocks. The other Islands are distant about a League. I told five of them: the greatest of which last lie somewhere inward to the Shore. For two Nights together about this time (28 and 29) the Sky being very hazy, the Sun set in a colour as deep as Blood, which was very astonishing. We were then in the Latitude of 40. 31. Betimes in the Morning we sailed by the Rock of _Lisbon_, at some distance, which was scarce discernible by reason of the cloudiness of the Weather. Two _Turks_ Men of War are now plying to the Windward of us; but dare not come up to speak with us, perceiving that we are only laden with Powder and Bullet.
_September 1._ In the Morning we made Cape _St. Vincent_. I went on Shore with the Lieutenant and several others in our Pinnace, which we drove into one of the Coves; and were forced to climb up a Rock, the ascent of which was very dangerous and troublesome; and made more so by the Rays of the Sun, which were reflected with that vehemence, that the Heat was almost intolerable. Having gained the top, we were met by an Officer and some Soldiers, who had us into the Castle, the middlemost of the three, which are built along that Promontory for the Security of the Coasts, and entertained us with Wine, Grapes, and Marmalade. They told us, that a Squadron of English Men of War sailed by the day before. We here met with two Vessels belonging to _Dartmouth_, laden with Fish from _Newfoundland_, bound for _Alicant_. All along the Coasts, at the distance of about two or three Leagues, are several Watch-towers built to give notice of Pirates. Becalmed for the most part these two or three days.
5. In the Morning we weathered the Point of _Cadiz_, and came to an Anchor in the _Bay of Bulls_, about half a League from the great _Porgoe_; and in the Afternoon went on shore. We were entertained by the _English_ Consul, and carried by him to view the Fortifications, which are esteemed to be as regular as any in _Christendom_; built in the same place where the Town had been attacked formerly by the _English_, under the Conduct of the Earl of _Essex_ in the Reign of Q. _Elizabeth_. Plays are usually here, as in other parts of _Spain_, acted on a _Sunday_. During the time of our stay, was represented the History of the Patience of _Job_, the Devil brought upon the Stage, tempting _Job_'s Wife in a drolling way, which caused great Laughter and Merriment among the Spectators. At _Malaga_, as the Merchants told us, the _Sunday_ before we arrived there, was acted the _Schism of England_ in the time of King _Henry_ the Eighth, whom the _Spaniards_ will not yet forgive, for Divorcing himself from Q. _Catherine_, their Country-Woman. 9. We sailed from _Cadiz_. 10. This Afternoon we were forced to Anchor, not far from _Cape Spartel_ or _Sprat_, as the Seamen call it, not being able to weather the Point. 11. This day we came to an Anchor in _Tangier-Bay_, with Sir _Thomas Allen_'s Squadron.
_Tangier_ lies within the Entrance into the _Strait_ of the _Mediterranean_, in the Latitude of about 35°, 36´. It is situated in the bottom of a Bay, and is built on the side of the Hill, overlooking the Sea, encompassed with high Walls to the Land-ward, and commanded by a strong Castle. The Heats would be very troublesome but for the Sea-breezes which cool and fan the Air. In the Castle I met with a _Roman_ Monument, erected to the Honour of _P. Belius_, a great Officer and Souldier in _Trajan_'s time; who, among his other Titles, is there stiled, PPO. FIG. MAURITANIAE. TINGITANAE: which since has been taken away, and presented to the University of _Oxon_ by Sir _Hugh Cholmondley_, and now serves to adorn the _Area_ about the _Theatre_.
The _English_ have two Churches here, (though they only make use of one, the other being reserved against all Accidents) both of them very neat and convenient; though not to be compared with the Church of the _Portuguese_, retained still, according to the Articles of Agreement, when the King of _Portugal_ made over the Right and Title, and gave the Possession of _Tangier_ to the Crown of _England_, by the Canons Regulars, belonging to it, which is very stately, and adorn'd with rich Images, and supported by Marble Pillars. Toward one end of the _English_ Church, just by the Vestiary, which had been formerly a _Turkish_ Mosch, and afterward the Chappel of a Convent of _Dominicans_, is a Monumental Stone-Table in _Arabick_ Characters, containing an account of the Houses, Lands, and other Revenues belonging to it, set up in the 743 year of the _Hegira_, that is, of Christ 1341. The Mole is in good forwardness, they having gained above 200 yards in the Sea, in order to the making of a good and safe Harbour for Ships to ride in, which lye open to Wind and Waves; the outward side to the Seaward somewhat sloping. The Garrison is in so good a posture of Defence, that they defy _Taffiletta_ and all his Forces. Here we met with great Civilities from Colonel _Norwood_, Deputy-Governour, and the Gentlemen belonging to the Garrison. Sir _Harry Mildmay_ and Mr. _Goodland_, two of King _Charles_ the First his Judges, are here; but who have the Liberty of the Town. Now, at our being here, come in several _Moors_ from _Arzilla_, and among the rest, the Father of one of _Gayland_'s Wives, to get a Passage for _Algiers_.
Old _Tangier_ lyes at some little distance, where they find very frequently in digging several pieces of _Roman_ Coin. But for the above-mentioned, and the other Curiosities and Antiquities of _Tangier_, of which I forbear to make mention, from the imperfect and hasty Observations of two days, the greatest part of which being taken up by the Entertainment of our obliging Country-men, you may consult with great pleasure and satisfaction, a little Book called _The present State of Tangier_, written by a very ingenious Gentleman, and printed in the Year 1676. There is a vast _draught_ of _water_ poured continually out of the _Atlantick_ into the _Mediterranean_, the mouth or entrance of which between _Cape Spartel_ or _Sprat_, as the _sea-men_ call it, and _Cape Trafalgar_, may be near 7 leagues wide, the _current_ setting strong into it, and not losing its force till it runs as far as _Malaga_, which is about 20 leagues within the _Streights_. By the benefit of this _Current_, tho' the wind be contrary, if it does not over-blow, _Ships_ easily turn into the _gut_, as they term the _narrow passage_, which is about 20 miles in length. At the end of which are two Towns, _Gibraltar_ on the coast of _Spain_, which gives denomination to the _Streight_, and _Ceuta_ on the _Barbary_ coast: at which places _Hercules_ is supposed to have set up his _Pillars_. What becomes of this great quantity of water poured in this way, and of that, which runs from the _Euxine_ into the _Bosporous_ and _Propontis_, and is carried at last through the _Hellespont_ into the _Ægæan_ or _Archipelago_, is a curious _speculation_, and has exercised the wit and understanding of _Philosophers_ and _Navigators_. For there is no sensible rising of the _water_ all along the _Barbary Coast_, even down to _Alexandria_, the land beyond _Tripoli_, and that of _Ægypt_, lying very low, and easily overflowable. They observe indeed, that the water rises 3 feet, or 3 feet and an half, in the _gulph_ of _Venice_, and as much, or very near as much, all along the _Riviera_ of _Genoa_, as far as the river _Arno_: but this rather adds to the wonder.
I here omit to speak at large of the several _Hypotheses_ which have been invented to solve this difficulty: such as _subterraneous vents_, cavities and indraughts, _exhalations_ by the _Sun-beams_, the running out of the water on the _African side_, as if there were a kind of circular motion of the water, and that it only flowed in upon the _Christian_ shore: which latter I look upon as a meer fancy, and contrary to all observation. My conjecture is, that there is an _under-Current_, whereby as great a quantity of water is carried out, as comes flowing in. To confirm which, besides what I have said above about the difference of tides in the _offing_, and at the _Shore_ in the _Downs_, which necessarily supposes an _under-Current_, I shall present you with an instance of the like nature in the _Baltick Sound_, as I received it from an able Seaman, who was at the making of the tryal. He told me, that being there in one of the _King's_ Frigats, they went with their _Pinnace_ into the _middle stream_, and were carried violently by the _Current_: that soon after they sank a _bucket_ with a large _Cannon_ bullet to a certain _depth_ of water, which gave check to the boats motion, and sinking it still lower and lower, the _boat_ was driven a-head to wind-ward against the upper _Current_: the _current_ aloft, as he added, not being above 4 or 5 _fathom_ deep, and that the lower the bucket was let fall, they found the _under-Current_ the stronger. I designed to have made the _Experiment_ in the _Streights-Channel_; but both times I past, the Easterly wind blew so hard, that there was no putting out the boat with any safety; nor indeed at those times had we any leisure for such a _Curiosity_; which those, who liv'd at _Tangier_, might have tryed without any difficulty or danger.
This conjecture, how likely or unlikely soever, will stand or fall according to the certainty of the _Observations_, which shall be made there, which I will endeavour to procure in order to the further establishment, or utter overthrow of it. 13. We weighed out of _Tangier_ and turned into the _Strait_, though against the Wind. The distance between _Gibraltar_ Cape, which gives name to the _Straits_, and is joyned to the Continent of _Spain_ and _Ceuta_ a well-built and strongly fortified Town, lying under the Hill _Alybe_, called so by the _Greeks_, which the Seamen commonly call, as do some _Spanish_ Writers, _Apes-hill_, from the great number of Apes which used formerly to haunt there, (at which places _Hercules_ is feigned to have set up his Pillars) may be about six Leagues; tho' both Lands lying very high (for we saw the Clouds much below them) it does not appear in the middle of the Current, out of a tall Ship, scarce half so broad. 14. Little Wind stirring.
15. A great Mist all the Sea over, so that we could scarce see three lengths of the Ship, which began to vanish in the Afternoon; and than we descryed the _Cape of Malaga_ at about four Leagues distance; and came to an Anchor that Night. The City lies under a high Hill, and is the Seat of a Bishop, who is at this time a Natural Son of King _Philip_ the Fourth, of the Order of St. _Dominic_. Here the Merchants told us, that it had not rained for seven Months together, except a day or two for an Hour: and that the _Algerines_, who were then breaking with us, had not been able to have set a Fleet to Sea about two years before, if they had not been furnished with Masts from _England_; and that they were now in Expectation of another Ship laden with the same, notwithstanding the Rupture, which was as good as began. I only make a Query, Whether _Jews_ or _English_ Men were the Freighters? 16. The next Morning the Governour immediately returned our Salute Gun for Gun: soon after we weighed from _Malaga_ Road, the Weather very hot. Some Rain fell at Night, though very moderately. In the Evening, after we had sailed about eighteen Leagues, we were becalm'd. The Sea being quiet, we saw a great number of _Tortoises_ swimming above Water, several _Bottle-noses_, fish of about three yards long, and very thick, and Hawks flying over to the _Barbary_ Coast. The Hills of _Granada_ were seen plainly by us, though at a great distance.
The Wind coming Easterly, we kept at Sea, beating and plying to and again for these four days, scarce gaining sixteen Leagues of our way, and were forc'd to come to an Anchor in the _Bay of Adera_, where there is a strong Cittadel, about thirty four or thirty five Leagues from _Malaga_. 21. We passed by _Cape de Gata_: but the Levant wind still blowing, having continued almost in that Point for above two Months, as we computed from what they had told us at _Tangier_, we could make but little progress in our Voyage. 25. Between three and four of the Clock in the Morning the Tornado's began to blow, and the Wind violent for the time, with such continued Flashes of Lightning for several hours, as that the whole Sky seemed to be on fire, intermixed with terrible Claps of Thunder, after which followed great showers of Rain. 25. The Wind still contrary, we descryed _Cape St. Martin_ at about fifteen Leagues distance. Tacking about and standing off to Seaward, next Morning 27. we found that we had lost about three Leagues of our way. 28. We were athwart _Orlando's Gap_ within two Leagues of the Shore, _Cape St. Martin_ bearing off us _N._ by _W._ The Wind now still; but a swelling Sea coming from the Westward, which is usual before a Wind, which drives the Water before it.
On _Michaelmas-day_ we were up with the Island _Ivica_, or _Ivise_, as the Mariners call it, and the Wind blowing fair, we stood our Course; and the next day at Noon we made the _Island Majorca_, situate over against the Kingdom of _Valentia_, and came to an Anchor in the _Bay_ of the City, being forced in hither for want of fresh Water. In the Afternoon the Boat was sent on shore; but the Vice-Roy would not give us Prattick, not bringing a Patent from _Malaga_. _Octob. 1._ The Secretary was sent with the King's Pass to the Vice-Roy to demand Prattick, who presently summoned the Officers of the _Sanita_. After long Debates and Delays they consented, and came to the _Mole_ to receive him. He went directly to the Governour to acquaint him, that we were ready to Salute the City with what number of Guns he pleased, if he would engage upon his Honour to give us as many. He replied, that he would give us three for five; and wondered, that we being but a single Ship, should make such a Demand. The Secretary told him, That we were to be treated as an Admiral, having a Flag on our Maintop; and that the Governour of _Malaga_ had done it. To this he said, That _Majorca_ was a Kingdom, that he was the King's Representative, and that by Reason of the Miscarriage of his Predecessor, when Monsieur _de Beaufort_, the _French_ Admiral was there, he had received strict Orders from _Madrid_ not to do the like. The Secretary replied, That we had an Ambassador on board, and had as strict Orders, and should answer as severely for the Breach of them.
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