Miscellanea Curiosa, Vol. 3 · Royal Society
VOL. III.
His last Answer was, That we might, with our Sails loose, keep before the Town, till we had furnished our selves with what we wanted. Upon receiving this Message, the Ambassador dispatched away one _Joseph Gabriel Cortez_, a _Spaniard_, but employed by the _English_ Merchants trading to that Island, then on board our Ship, to acquaint him, That when we were ready to go away, we would loose our Sails, and not before. We landed within the _Mole_; the Walk upon it about four or five Yards broad; at the Extremity of which is a very large and stately Gate, which leads into the City. We went into the great Church, somewhat wider than _Westminster-Abbey_, but darkish within: the Portal very magnificent, adorned with several Marble Statues in Niches one over another. The High Altar very plain and unadorned: but others extraordinary rich and glorious. Not far from the City are several Mills to grind their Olives, Oyl being the great Commodity of the Island. 2. The next Morning we weighed, without taking any kind of notice of the Town, sailing all along in sight of the Island, which presented us with a pleasing and delightful Prospect; the Valleys, lying under the Hills, fruitful of Wine and Corn. The whole Island is judged to be about sixty Leagues in Compass, and in length about fifteen: which we sailed from the Westermost Point, where lies the Isle _Dragovera_, at a very little distance to the Eastermost, where there is built a small Fort. To the S. S. E. lie several little Islands, called the _Cabreas_; between which and _Majorca_ we steered.
14. In the Evening we set Sail from _Genoa_. Becalmed for the most part these three Days, though helped somewhat forward by the Breezes that blew off the shore after Sun set. 18. In the Afternoon we made the Island _Gorgonia_, about nine Leagues from _Livorne_; a little round Island, with a Castle on the top. 19. In the Morning we came to an Anchor in _Livorne_ Road, about a Mile from the Town: the Road large and secure, especially to the Northward. The Ambassador keeps on Board, the Governour refusing to Salute the Ship first, though he had formerly saluted the _French_; pretending that every Convoy might carry a Flag; and alledging that his Master, the Grand Duke, was as great and absolute, as the Republick of _Genoa_: and that they had rather throw themselves upon the King of _England_, than do a thing which might prove of such an ill Consequence. Sir _John Finch_, his Majesty's Resident, together with Sir _Thomas Baines_, came from _Florence_ to Complement the Ambassador, and immediately dispatched away a Courier to the Grand Duke about the Salute; who referred the whole Affair to the Governor: and he making a Protest that he was ready to pay all the respect which was due to the Ambassador's Character and Quality, upon the fore-mentioned Pretensions, six days, after our arrival, absolutely refused to Salute the Ship first.
_Livorne_ is the great Magazine of Trade for the _Levant_, being a free Port: Merchants of all Countries residing here, _Armenians_ especially, and _Jews_; which latter enjoy great Priviledges, without wearing any distinct Mark in their Hats or Habits, whereby they may be known. They are allow'd the publick Exercise of their Religion: their Synagogue large and handsome. The Port inward has a _Mole_ for the Duke's Galleys and other small Vessels to ride in: the Entrance of which is chained up every Night. Hard by is the Statue of Duke _Ferdinand_ in Marble, raised upon an high Pedestal; under which are four Slaves in Brass, in different Postures, very large, and above the ordinary proportion, but done with exquisite and admirable Art. Two Castles to the Seaward well fortified: the Town Walls very high, and the four Gates strongly guarded: below which is a Ditch of about fifteen or twenty yards over, and very deep. No Stranger is allowed to view the Works, nor Souldier permitted to come out of the Castles. About four thousand Slaves are there, as the Merchants told us, who are lockt up in the _Bagno_ every Night. The _Piazza_, where the Merchants meet, is adorned with Marble Pillars, which sustain the Porticos: at the East end of which is the great Church whose Roof appears very glorious, having several Circles richly gilded and painted with curious Figures.
The broad Street is paved between two and three yards on each side with Free-stone. 27. In the Afternoon we weighed out of _Livorne_ Road, and sailed by the Islands _Gorgonia_ and _Capraria_, seeing _Corsica_ at a distance. 28. We lay beating at Sea all this Day, the Wind being contrary. 29. This Day we were forced back, the contrary Winds still continuing. 30. We weighed a second time, and sailed by three small Islands, _Capraria_, _Planasia_, and _Monte Christi_. We saw also _Gigio_ and _Sanuti_, two other small Islands near the Main: but we made but little way, by reason of ill Weather for 4 or 5 Days. _Novemb. 5._ At Evening we saw the Eruptions of Fire from _Stromboli_, which lies to the N. W. of _Sicily_. Sometimes it flamed very bright Light as a _Beacon_, at other times there appeared only a glorious kind of Light, like that of an ordinary Star when the Air is thick and hazy. They say that it flames most in rainy Weather.
6. In the Morning we were up within a League of it, and plainly perceived it to smoke. It is of a round figure, and, as we gathered, may be about three or four Miles in compass. It bore W. by S. of us. Not far from it lye scattered several other Islands, called by the Ancients _Æoliœ_ and _Vulcaniœ_: among which are _Lipara_, a long flattish Island, and _Vulcanello_, which smokes most. This Afternoon we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom Water in the _Phare_ of _Messina_, in the mid Stream between _Scylla_ and _Charybdis_: a violent and strong Current setting against us, and the Wind not high enough, so as to be able to stemm it. The breadth of the _Strait_ from _Messina_ to _Rhegium_ may be about a League. The Land is very high on the _Calabrian_ side, where are very steep Rocks, and great depth of Water, above 150 Fathom, as they told us: but on the _Sicilian_ side, near _Charybdis_ Shole-water, and usually an Eddy. On the Sandy Banks stands the Phare or Watch-tower. Several Currents meeting in this narrow Passage, cause a great rippling of the Water: and great quantity of Water coming in, as the Winds drive, in great quantity meeting with the Shole, is broken into Waves. The Eddies here are caused by the meeting of the different Currents by which the Waters are sometimes carried N. and sometimes S. the great danger is, lest they drive the Ship on either side. We have had Lightning for seven or eight Nights together.
7. We sail'd by _Ætna_, now called _Mongibel_, where the Sea widens ten or eleven Leagues over. Now we see plainly the Smoke briskly issuing out of the _Crater_, the _Limbus_ of which was all black. The uppermost part of the Mountain was covered with Snow, except some streaks of Ashes, as we judge, which lie as it were in a Gutter, spread here and there. 8. We espied a _Saettia_ at about 3 Leagues distance, and making up to her, found her forsaken. The Captain sent several Seamen on board, and carried the Vessel to _Smyrna_. Scanty Wind for several Days: and the Lightning still continued. 13. We were up with _Cape Modona_, the Southernmost Cape of the _Morea_, and sailed by _Coron_. The Land very high, the Hills of _Arcadia_ lying Eastward from us. The Weather excessive hot at this time, as it is in _England_ at _Midsummer_. We espied from our Maintop-mast five Sail of great Ships, which we supposed to be _Tripolines_, who did not think fit to come up and speak with us. But afterward we heard for certain, that they were part of the _Venetian_ Fleet. 14. We lay for the most part becalmed over against _Cape Matapan_: but in the Evening the Wind blowing fresh, we sailed between the Island of _Cerigo_ and the Main Land of _Greece_; it being about three Leagues over to _Cape Angelo_.
15. We entred the Arches, and steered through the North Channel, leaving _Melo_ and _Antimelo_ on the Starboard-quarter, at some Leagues distance. 16. Betimes in the Morning we were athwart _Negropont_, and sailed between it and _Andros_. The _Bocca_ lies S. W. and N. E. 17. We sailed by _Chios_ or _Scio_, which is very mountainous toward the middle. It is about four Leagues distant from _Cape Caraboroun_, or the _Cape of the black Nose_, as the _Turkish_ word signifies, which the Seamen, in their usual way of corrupting Names, call _Cape Jobbernoule_, the _Corinœum_ of the Ancients, a Promontory of the famous Mountain _Mimas_, which runs along the Southern side of the _Bay of Smyrna_. This Day the _Smyrna_ Fleet from _England_ comes up to us very luckily, to our great Satisfaction and Joy. 18. We are now got into the _Bay of Smyrna_, and come to an Anchor without the Castle, not far from St. _Jacomo's Point_, as the Seamen call it, or rather _Sangiac Point_. In the Afternoon the Consul, with several Gentlemen of the Factory, came to wait upon my Lord Ambassador, and desired his Lordship to defer his Entrance into _Smyrna_ till the Twentieth, that he might be received with greater Honour. That Evening we heard a great howling of _Jackalls_ upon the Hills.
20. The Consul with the Nation, accompanied with his _Druggermen_ and _Janizaries_ in their _Habit_, together with several _French_, _Dutch_ and _Genoese_ Merchants, residing in that famous Emporium, came to the Village near the Castle, who there expected us with Horses. Upon our going ashore, the _Leopard_ fired fifty one Guns. We made about 140 Horse; and immediately upon our setting forth, we rode for about three Miles together under the Hill to the S. W. of _Smyrna_; the places adjoyning set thick with Olive, Fig, and Almond-trees. Afterwards we clambered over some rocky Ascents; but the Horses of the Country being sure-footed, we were in no danger of falling. Some little way we were forced to ride on the Sea-shore, and soon after came to the Jews burying place, whose Monuments lie flat upon the ground. As soon as we entred into the City, we found the Streets full of _Greeks_, _Armenians_, _Turks_, and _Jews_, whom Curiosity had drawn together to see and observe our Cavalcade; the _English_ Ships, which were in the _Bay_, firing their Guns, as we past near the Shore. And so after three hours riding the Ambassador was brought to the Consul's House, where Lodgings were provided for him. During our stay we met with not only kind, but very noble Entertainment from the worthy Gentlemen of the Factory.
_Decemb. 8._ We took our leave of _Smyrna_, being accompanied by the Consul and Merchants on board the _London-Merchant_, Capt. _John Hill_ Commander, the _Leopard_ being ordered to go no further than _Smyrna_, it being feared in _England_, that if she had sailed up to _Constantinople_, the _Turks_ might have press'd her for their Service in _Candia_, which they were then besieging. 9. This Morning we weighed betimes, and sailed between _Scio_ and _Mytilene_. But on the 10. We were forced back near the long Island within the Bay, being unwilling to go to _Scio_, the _Tripolines_ and _Turkish_ Galleys lying there. Here we lay ten Days, expecting a fair Wind. 20. The Wind coming about and favouring us, we sailed a second time between _Scio_ and _Mytilene_. 21. We past by _Lemnos_, and were up with the Island _Tenedos_; a fine Champaign Country, only with one Hill toward the middle of it. The Castle to the N. E. part of the Isle: over against which lye three small Islands in a strait Line. Here we came to an Anchor. We saw the Ruins of _Troas_ at a distance, but did not think it safe to go ashore.
22. The Wind coming about at S. we entred the _Hellespont_, which may be about two Leagues and a half over. The Castles built upon the opposite points of Land, about 11 or 12 Years before, after the great Defeat given the _Turkish Armata_ at the _Dardanels_ by the _Venetians_; _Cape Janizary_ on the _Asian_ side; which, with the _Philæum_, makes a tolerable good Bay for ordinary Vessels. The narrowest Strait of the _Hellespont_ is at the two other Castles, distant about six Leagues, where it may be about ¾ of a Mile wide. These the _Christians_ call the _Dardanelli_; at which are situate the Towns, _Sestus_ and _Abydus_, famous in _Greek_ Poesie. These Castles we saluted with our Guns and Trumpets, as we did the first: but each, whether out of Pride, or out of Covetousness, to save the _Grand Signior_'s Powder, return'd us no more than two Guns. The Wind blowing very fair we sailed into the _Propontis_. 23. We passed by St. _Stephano's Point_, where we had a full view of the S. E. Angle of _Constantinople_, which being situated upon several Hills to a mighty advantage, what with the Cypress-Trees intermixed, and what with the gilded Spires of the _Moschs_, yielded us a very diverting glorious Prospect. Passing by the _Seraglio Point_, which we saluted by a discharge of several Guns, in the mid Stream between it and the _Tophana_, we came to an Anchor.
26. On St. _Stephen_'s Day the Ambassador landed at _Galata_, (having before been visited by the Earl of _Winchelsea_, and the Merchants residing there) and was received there by the _Chiaus Basha_ and the _Vaivod_ of _Galata_, the _Janizaries_ and _Chiauses_ attending, and was waited upon by them to his Palace: and soon after the _Kaimacam_, or Governor of _Constantinople_, sent an Officer to Complement him upon his Arrival; the _Grand Signior_ being then at _Larissa_ in _Thessaly_. _January 2._ The Ambassadors, Old and New, went over to _Constantinople_, that Morning being assigned by the _Kaimacam_ to give them Audience, the _Chiaus Basha_ and other Officers attending at the Water-side to receive them; Horses being brought thither for them and their Followers to mount. This _Kaimakam Jusuph_, a little old Man, had formerly been a Page of the Chamber, and chief Falconer, and afterwards _Basha_ of _Silistria_. He entertained the Ambassadors and their Company with Perfumes, Coffee, and Sherbet, and distributed about fifteen _Koftans Orrests_ among them: after about an Hours stay they took their leave. Being upon the Coasts of _Greece_ about _August_ or _September_ 69. in the Latitude of 35°. 53´. we found by our _Azimouth_ Compass, that we had Westerly variation there 5°. 22´.
The variety of Colours of the Sea-Water at several times chiefly depends upon the Wind and Weather, and the reflexion of the Light upon it. It's usual and most natural Colour is a deep Green: but in Cloudy and Rainy Weather, the Surface of the Water appears blackish. On the _Goodwins_ upon the Tide of Flood, the Water was white, the Waves by reason of the Shallows, meeting with opposition, and breaking into Foam, till the Flood is well advanced. Sometimes the Water is of a perfect Azure colour, as we observed for several Weeks in the _Mediterranean_. The Sun shining bright upon the Water, sometimes the upper part of the Waves appears Purplish, sometimes Reddish; though in Shallows perchance it may receive this latter Tincture also from the Sands which lie under it. When the Wind has freshened, and the Ship has been under full Sail, I have observed the Waves to the head, and at the sides of the Ship, to appear with a pale kind of brightness: and at _Malaga_, and at my return, going on board our Ship, which lay about half a League from the shore, at Night, the Wind then at East, the Boats Crew letting their Oar fall roughly into the Water, diverted us as it were with the sight of a continued Flame, raised by their rowing; which I ascribe rather to the Saline Particles of the Sea-Water, which were then put into a violent Agitation, than to the Spawn of Fish, as some of our Company imagined.
Sailing toward the West of _Portland_, we saw several _Porpisces_ playing with their Heads above Water; which I mention only, because the Seamen look upon them as fore-runners of a Storm; the Wind soon after blowing very hard at North by East. And afterwards arriving at _Constantinople_, the Wind blowing a stiff Gale at North, I observed with a pleasing kind of astonishment good part of the _Propontis_, that is, from the _Seraglio Point_ toward the Islands, which lye against the _Bay of Nicomedia_, Eastward and South-East from us, as far as we could see, covered as it were with _Porpisces_, which appeared every where in great abundance. So that I am very apt to believe that _Julius Solinus_ in _Chap._ 12. of his _Polykister_ is to be understood of _Porpisces_, and not of _Dolphins_, now properly so called, though that be his Word, speaking of the _Bosphorus_ and _Propontis_: _Hæc profunda Delphinas plurimos habent_: and soon after, _ante omnia nihil velocius habent maria, sic ut plerunque transvolent vela navium_. I could not hear that any _Dolphins_ are caught in those Seas by the _Greeks_, whose Poverty, added to the love which their Nation has for Fish, and the advantage arising thence, upon the account of their solemn Fasts and Abstinences from all Flesh, even to a wonderful strictness and scrupulosity, has made them excellent Fishermen: nor did I ever see any in their Fish-Markets, or see one of them brought to the Ambassador's Table by the Proveditor for curiosity: Though otherwise it is an excellently well tasted Fish, especially when soused. I allow, that they will swim very swiftly, as do the _Porpisces_; and that they will follow a Ship for several Leagues together: but then they Swim somewhat deep in the Water, sometimes are catch'd, though not often. The Seamen have reached them with a Fisgig, a kind of barbed Iron, at the End of a Pole tied fast to a Rope, and have made good Chear with them. But this is only my Conjecture, with which I end my Journal.
_Salve sceptrorum columen, Regina orientis, Orbis Roma tui._ The Country about it was afterwards called _Romania_ in a limited and restrained sense, (for that _Romania_ was anciently the same with _orbis Romanus_, seems clear from[5]_Epiphanius_) and the People Ρωμαῖοι. But I suppose this was not done till about the middle times of the Empire, when it began to decline. The _Greeks_ still retain this Name. For if you ask any of the _Greeks_ born upon the Continent of _Thrace_, what Country Man he is? he answers forthwith, Ρωμαῖος _Romios_, for so they pronounce it. The _Turks_ in like manner call a _Greek_ Christian _Urum Gaour_, or the Roman Infidel, as they will call sometimes the Emperor of _Germany_, _Urumler Padisha_ or Emperor of the _Romans_. Hence it was, that the latter _Græcian_ Emperors stiled themselves βασιλεῖς Ρωμαίων, Kings of the Romans, that is, such as were Born in _Romania_ and the other Countries, which made up the Eastern division of the Empire.
Tho' perchance by this flourishing Title they pretended a right to the Government of the West: Upon which vain presumption they assumed also the Title of Κοσμοκράτορες, or Emperors of the World, as if they had been the true Successors of _Augustus_, and the Western Emperors, Usurpers, whom they called by way of contempt and indignation, Ρῆγες, Reges, as[6] _Luitprandus_ informs us in the accompt of his Embassy to _Nicephorus Phocas_, and afforded the People of _Italy_ no other Title than that of[7]_Longobards_ or _Lombards_. The present _Greeks_ call all the Western Christians Λατῖνοι or φράγγοι _Latins_ or _Franks_, the _Turks_ only making use of the latter, when they speak civilly of us, and calling _Christendom_ _Phrenkistan_, in the present _Greek_ φραγγία. The _Turks_ now as proudly call _Constantinople_ _Alem pena_, or the refuge of the World: Where indeed seems to be a medley of all or most Nations of three parts of it, and of all Religions, which are allowed to be publickly profest and exercised every where throughout the Empire, except the _Persian_. For they look upon it as a corruption of, and deviation from the Rules and Doctrine of _Mahomet_, their great false Prophet, and therefore absolutely forbid it, as repugnant to, and destructive of the Doctrine of Life and Salvation, as they speak.
And accordingly they condemn with all imaginable fury the Professors of it, who pretend to follow _Ali_, as Sectaries and Apostates, and entertain worse Opinions of them, than of _Christians_, or _Jews_ or _Infidels_. The _Persians_ are not behind-hand with them in their hatred and disrespect, deriding them as gross and stupid, and looking upon them as little less than barbarous; Interest and Zeal for their several Tenets heightning their differences so much, that in time of War they destroy one anothers _Moschs_. I remember, that there was a great Discourse in _Constantinople_ among the _Turks_ concerning an impudent hot-headed _Persian_, who publickly in the new _Mosch_ built by the Mother of the present Emperor, asserted that _Ali_ was equal to _Mahomet_. But it seems he very luckily made his escape out of their Hands, at which the Priests and the more zealous _Turks_ were very much scandalized. The _Greeks_ have twenty six Churches within the Walls of the City, besides 6 in _Galata_, of which I have given an Account elsewhere. They have also two Churches at _Scutari_, one at _Kadikui_ or _Chalcedon_. So at _Staurosis_, _Chingilkui_, and several other Villages upon the Asian Shore off the Bosphorus, as at _Beshictash_, _Ortakui_, _Chorouch chesme_, which Church is dedicated to St. _Michal_ the Archangel, _Jenikui_ or _Neochorion_, _Therapia_, _Bujukdere_, and other Villages on the _European_ side. They have also a Church at _Haskui_, where is their Burying place, and another near the _Bagnio_, dedicated to St. _Parasceve_. And at _Tatoula_ about a Mile from _Pera_, upon a Hill, which from the Name of the Church is thence called by the _Greeks_ and _Franks_, St. _Demetrius_ his Hill. Next to the holy Virgin, St. _Demetrius_ and St. _George_ have most Churches dedicated to them.
The _Armenians_ have not, if I remember aright, above seven Churches; they being few in number in comparison of the _Greeks_. The _Jews_ may have in the City and places adjacent between twenty and thirty Synagogues, this being the greatest shelter of that accursed contemptible People in the Grand Signiors Dominions, next to _Caire_ and _Saloniki_: and I believe there may be about twenty or thirty thousand families of them. They are of great use and service to the _Turks_, upon accompt of their Brocage and Merchandise, and Industry in several mechanical Trades. All these I look upon as Natives, or Slaves rather, each paying mony for his Head every year. The _Jews_ indeed very wisely collect this Tax among themselves, and according to an agreement made with the _Teftardar_ or Treasurer, pay a certain sum in gross for their whole Nation residing there: by which piece of cunning they are great gainers, and spare the poor among them less able to pay, by a contribution of the rich to make up the sum. The _English_ and _Dutch_ Ambassadors have their Chappels in their Palaces common to their respective Nations. The Churches and Chappels of the Western _Christians_ of the _Roman_ Communion in _Galata_, are St. _Peters_, belonging to the _Dominicans_, where is the famous piece of _Madonna di Constantinopolis_ as the _Italians_ call it, or of the blessed Virgin, holding the holy Child _Jesus_ in her arms: which they pretend to be drawn by the hand of St. _Luke_, celebrated by some of the latter Ecclesiastical Writers to have been a famous Painter. Out of respect to this idle tradition the credulous and superstitious _Latins_ and _Greeks_ of the _Roman_ Communion shew great veneration to it, which otherwise hath little in it of proportion, art, or beauty, to derive any reputation upon the designer, or upon his work.
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